Versace’s New Creative Director Lasts 9 Months—Was This the Most Expensive Trial Run in Fashion History?

范思哲新创意总监上任9个月就下课，这波操作是时尚界最烧钱的试用期？

www.theguardian.com

Dario Vitale is out as Versace’s creative director—after just one season and two days after Prada bought the brand. He didn’t even get to unpack his desk. The official line? 'Mutual agreement.' Right. The more interesting truth: Prada probably looked at his SS2026 collection, saw the chaotic mesh of 80s glam and unclear vision, and quietly hit eject.

达里奥·维塔莱在范思哲创意总监的位置上只撑了一个季度，就在Prada收购品牌两天后被炒了。他连办公桌都没来得及收拾。官方说法是“双方共同决定”——得了吧。真实情况可能是：Prada看了他的2026春夏系列，发现80年代浮夸风和混乱的创意方向，默默按下了退出键。

Let’s be honest: appointing a behind-the-scenes Miu Miu exec to head Versace was always a stretch. One is cerebral minimalism; the other is Italian maximalism on steroids. Prada’s new era isn’t about experimental gambles—it’s about empire building. And empires don’t run on vibes.

说实话，让一个来自低调的Miu Miu的幕后高管执掌范思哲，本身就是一场赌博。一个走极简智性风，另一个是意大利式的极致张扬。普拉达的新时代不玩实验性冒险，而是要打造帝国——而帝国靠的不是感觉，是实力。

Luxury Brand Strategist (奢侈品战略顾问)

This isn’t a creative failure—it’s a strategic misalignment. Prada bought Versace to scale, not to audition unknowns. Vitale had pedigree, but his sensibility was Miu Miu’s shadow, not Versace’s spotlight.

这不是创意失败，而是战略错配。Prada收购范思哲是为了扩张规模，不是为了试镜新人。维塔莱虽有资历，但他的审美停留在Miu Miu的影子下，而非范思哲的聚光灯中。

Exasperated Fashion Fan (心累的时尚粉)

Another season, another creative director gone. At this rate, Versace’s next show should open with a coffin and a ‘For Rent’ sign.

又一季，又一个创意总监走人。照这个频率，范思哲下一场秀该用棺材开场，外加一块‘招租’牌子。

Corporate Turnaround Specialist (企业重组专家)

This is standard post-acquisition cleanup. New owners kill old hires. It’s not personal—it’s brand hygiene.

这是收购后的标准流程。新老板清理前任的人马。无关个人，只是品牌净化。

Design Historian (设计史学者)

Let’s not forget: Donatella stepped down after 27 years. That’s a dynasty ending. You don’t replace that with a committee or a temp hire. Versace needs a star, not a placeholder.

别忘了：多纳泰拉干了27年才卸任，一个王朝结束了。你不能用一个委员会或临时工来接班。范思哲需要的是巨星，不是过渡人选。

Olivier Rousteing Stan (鲁斯汀格的狂热粉丝)

Just name Olivier Rousteing already. The man’s been styling Balmain like a Greek god for 14 years. He is modern Versace energy.

直接让奥利维尔·鲁斯汀格上位吧。这人执掌Balmain14年，造型宛如希腊战神。他本人就是现代范思哲的化身。

Skeptical Investor (怀疑派投资人)

Prada paid $1.4bn. Let’s see if their ‘in due course’ replacement plan justifies that price tag. Right now, this looks less like an empire and more like a fire sale.

Prada花了14亿美元。咱们走着瞧，他们所谓“适时公布”的继任计划能否撑起这个价码。目前来看，这不像是打造帝国，倒像是清仓大甩卖。

Industry Insider (业内知情人士)

Fun fact: Kim Jones worked on Fendace. He gets both the luxury legacy and the hype game. If Prada wants cultural relevance, he’s the cheat code.

冷知识：金·琼斯操刀过Fendace联名系列。他既懂奢侈品传承，也玩得转流量密码。如果Prada想要文化影响力，他就是开挂外挂。

Fashion Memelord (时尚梗王)

RIP Dario. Gone but not forgotten. Like that one friend who RSVPs ‘maybe’ and then ghosts the party.

达里奥，走好。人虽走了，但存在感还在。就像那个回复‘可能去’却再也不回消息的朋友。

Versace’s New Creative Director Lasts 9 Months—Was This the Most Expensive Trial Run in Fashion History?

范思哲新创意总监上任9个月就下课，这波操作是时尚界最烧钱的试用期？

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